On Tuesday, we left Maputo around 4:30 am in order to hopefully avoid any police roadblocks but also to beat some of the morning traffic. It took an hour just to get out of the sprawling city. After hearing countless horror stories from travelers driving through Mozambique, we went through several police blocks, but managed not to be stopped once.
As we headed through Xai-Xai (shy-shy), expansive vistas of palm trees emerged. I remember seeing this when we came from hot, dusty Namibia in 1999 and thinking we had just arrived in paradise. The heat and humidity of Maputo seemed to subside as a gentle ocean breeze swept in.
For the entire drive and I can imagine for the rest of our time in Mozambique, there was a village about every ten kilometers. This means slowing down from 100 kph to 60kph in order to avoid the speed traps. As it is near to the end of the month payday, these poorly paid policemen will be looking for any excuse to make some extra cash. The roads have been repaved and widened recently, and the landmine removals signs from a decade ago are no longer there. The villages seemed to be thriving, and there were numerous roadside stands hawking peanuts, mangoes, cashews, peri-peri sauce, and large pieces of pottery.
We were going to drive the 500 kilometers right to Tofo Beach, but spotted a sign 150 kilometers south for LaGoa Eco-lodge. We diverted off of the tarmac onto a deep sandy road and drove seven kilometers further through villages until we reached the loveliest spot. LaGoa was a good stop. Thatched rondavels dotted the property, with views of the freshwater lagoon. The ocean was another four kilometers away and reminded us quite strongly of the National Seashore on Cape Cod with grassy sand dunes, a strong breeze and long beaches. The water was definitely warmer though, and we sank ourselves into the Indian Ocean to cool off in the three to four foot waves.
LaGoa was wonderfully landscaped with shady sitting areas, beautiful plants, and terraced grassy lawns. Because we arrived in the late morning, we had the whole day to enjoy ourselves. It felt a little bit like camping when night came and the only light we had was from our LED lantern and a paraffin lamp. Under the mosquito nets, we went to bed early listening to the silence and woke up early.
Coconuts and mangoes were plentiful and we had a couple of them for breakfast on Wednesday. After the six hour drive the day before, I was looking forward to a rather short travel day. We drove 120 kilometers on to Inhambane, the 11th century Arab trading post. As we were about to check into our room overlooking the harbor, we discovered that we had left the computer in its special hiding place back at LaGoa. The place was about as safe as home, but we have gotten into a routine of stashing away valuables when we are not in the room. Most things we would not have turned back around for, but the computer was one of the few things we did. And of course, it was right where we left it. It was not a disaster; as much as we don’t want to, we have the time to make mistakes like this. We wrote it off as a long driving day. In fact, it was one of the longest on the trip.
We were stopped by the police once and Russ’ certified forged drivers’ license passed inspection. After all, the most important thing is the certification. We did not drive back into Inhambane but found a great place forty minutes outside – Quinta Santo Antonio - opened by South Africans hoping to cash in on the recent tourism boom in this area. It was comfortable and undoubtedly nicer than the one we had planned to stay earlier. We were invited to dinner by a man and his daughter who were also staying over, and it was incredibly refreshing having a meal that we did not have to cook.
Thursday morning we drove into Inhambane, checking out the Arab-influenced architecture before heading to Tofo beach. It’s a chilled-out scene, reminding us of Caye Caulker in some ways but with a more developed surf and dive scene. The beach was expansive and clean while the ocean was clear and near bath temperature. We stayed at Fatima’s Nest, which was located right on the beach. We lounged in the shade and talked with people we had met in Maputo, before walking into town to buy some fruit, freshly baked bread, and bottled water (up to this point in Mozambique we have been treating the water with iodine or boiling, but the water here is apparently not treatable? Who knows but who wants to find out?) We also had an early dinner at a streetside café before coming back to Fatima’s.
The Cricket World Cup is underway, which doesn’t mean much to anyone outside of the former British empire, and certainly not me. But to any Brit, Aussie, Indian, Pakistani and countless others, it is the major happening in the world right now. Every now and again, we catch the BBC news and follow the revolutions in northern Africa and the Middle East which has taken on new meaning since we will be living there in six months. Hopefully, they will be peaceful processes.
We like the vibe and our oceanside grass hut at Fatima’s Nest, but the communal toilets and showers were rather nasty. So this morning, we moved slightly out of town to Turtle Cove, which while it has a lovely view is back away from the beach. Because it’s the off-season, we got an en-suite room for half the price of the grass hut at Fatima’s. It’s only a ten minute walk to the swimming beach and a five minute walk to where the surfers go. The grounds are shady and grassy; there is also a pool and amazing yoga center on the grounds where classes are offered daily but there are also instruction dvd’s to use by ourselves. Our idea is to stay through the weekend, and I don’t imagine our plan of reading, swimming, walking the beach, and eating fresh fish and fruit will change much over the next couple of days. I really enjoy this kind of life, living in a bathing suit and sarong and walking barefoot everywhere. Russ does too, and we are not in a rush.
Friday, February 25, 2011
Monday, February 21, 2011
Certified copies
We are used to having any copies we make certified, usually at a police station and sometimes the post office. If it isn't duly stamped, whatever paper it is invalid (we found this out with our work papers). It's a bit of a hassle, but it's worth doing for important things like drivers' license, passports, car registration.
We had all of these certified back in Botswana, but found out when we arrived here that the Botswana stamp is not valid, so everything must be stamped in Mozambique. Since the traffic police have the reputation of taking licenses and not giving them back until a bribe has been paid, we wanted to make sure we had copies before leaving Maputo.
We were directed to a notary, an office not much bigger than a closet with about three dozen people in there. We handed them our copies and originals, and a half hour later they called out our name to hand them back. Given the sauna conditions, I think I lost about five pounds of water in sweat.
We will leave early tomorrow morning and head up the coast. Because there are numerous speed traps, we will only be going 60 kilometers an hour. With 300 kilometers to our first stop, it will be a long day but I am aching to get on the beach.
We had all of these certified back in Botswana, but found out when we arrived here that the Botswana stamp is not valid, so everything must be stamped in Mozambique. Since the traffic police have the reputation of taking licenses and not giving them back until a bribe has been paid, we wanted to make sure we had copies before leaving Maputo.
We were directed to a notary, an office not much bigger than a closet with about three dozen people in there. We handed them our copies and originals, and a half hour later they called out our name to hand them back. Given the sauna conditions, I think I lost about five pounds of water in sweat.
We will leave early tomorrow morning and head up the coast. Because there are numerous speed traps, we will only be going 60 kilometers an hour. With 300 kilometers to our first stop, it will be a long day but I am aching to get on the beach.
Sunday, February 20, 2011
The art deco world of Lourenço Marques
Things have changed in Maputo (the former Lourenco Marques) since we were last here in 1999. At that time, it was not long after the war had ended, and we were the only tourists in what should have been the busy December holiday. We did not even see any of the city because Russ had a bad case of dysentery and we confined ourselves to the grand colonial-era Polana Hotel (which was about the best place we could have stayed). The bombed-out buildings have now been replaced by highrises and hotels. There are bustling sidewalk cafes and markets. It is a cosmopolitan city with lots of character.
But that doesn't say that it's orderly. What looks like a one lane road is supposed to fit two cars and often three across. City driving doesn't bother me as long as I know where I am going and Russ has been a great navigator. (We did kind of fix his expired drivers' license issue but it's still a bit sketchy and I will still do the bulk of the driving.)
We made it across the border relatively unscathed yesterday, but not without a few bumps. We are quickly learning that absolutely everything is negotiable. Bargaining is a rather common activity in Africa, but not the extremes it is taken here. It took me a while to get up to speed.
We are staying at Fatima's Backpackers on Mao Tse Tung Avenue, and it's been a long time since we've seen street signs with every Communist and revolutionary leader imaginable on the city map (although in my mind there is a big difference between Kim Il Jung avenue and Patrice Lumumba boulevard). But without doubt, we will see that again in Zimbabwe and Namibia. It's a comfortable place to stay and there is a fair amount of traveler traffic moving through, mostly to get up to the beaches. They are generous with their internet and we have been able to catch up on some things, like taxes. Not exactly what I want to be doing and we will be filing for an extension, but this is a more complicated tax year than most.
The temperature is warm and balmy all of the time and we take several short cold showers during the day to cool off. There is also a lot of fresh fruit - guavas, mangoes, pineapples, and bananas for sale that keep us refreshed. We were advised not to drink the water, but the beer is cheap and quite good. Soda is out of the bottle, and it's cold cold. The neighborhood pasteleria where fresh bread and pastries can be found was an excellent find yesterday afternoon. But the real treasure is the seafood. Today we went to the fish market on the Marginal Way. It was packed with people. The trick was to find a cafe (and waiter who spoke some English). She took us to the market, where we picked out our seafood (choices ranged from every type of shellfish imaginable to all kinds of fish). We settled on barracuda and calamari which they then cooked for us back at the restaurant. So I think for the next two weeks we will skip the textured vegetable protein, pasta, and peanut butter diet and live on fish and fruit instead!
Walking early this morning, we marveled at the art deco architecture that the city built in its heydey of the early 1900's. It seemed to resemble Havana or Miami in some ways. Even the cathedral is designed in this style, making it unlike any large church I have ever seen. The buildings are painted in the most fantastic colors and the details are intricate, indicating real craftmanship. The art deco is interspersed with earlier white-washed Portuguese buildings and then rather dreary concrete blocks from the 1960's. Russ has been wanting to see Gustav Eiffel's grand train station for the past twelve years and we finally made it there. It was worth the hour walk to get there (too hot to walk back, so we took a small tuk-tuk cab back to Fatima's).
We revisited the Polana, which was a lovely respite from the heat, and the Costa de Sol, a tired seaside hotel and seafood restaurant twelve years ago which has been revitalized and is thriving now. It was really nice to go back to the places that we had visited before and we hope to do more of that as we move up the coast.
But that doesn't say that it's orderly. What looks like a one lane road is supposed to fit two cars and often three across. City driving doesn't bother me as long as I know where I am going and Russ has been a great navigator. (We did kind of fix his expired drivers' license issue but it's still a bit sketchy and I will still do the bulk of the driving.)
We made it across the border relatively unscathed yesterday, but not without a few bumps. We are quickly learning that absolutely everything is negotiable. Bargaining is a rather common activity in Africa, but not the extremes it is taken here. It took me a while to get up to speed.
We are staying at Fatima's Backpackers on Mao Tse Tung Avenue, and it's been a long time since we've seen street signs with every Communist and revolutionary leader imaginable on the city map (although in my mind there is a big difference between Kim Il Jung avenue and Patrice Lumumba boulevard). But without doubt, we will see that again in Zimbabwe and Namibia. It's a comfortable place to stay and there is a fair amount of traveler traffic moving through, mostly to get up to the beaches. They are generous with their internet and we have been able to catch up on some things, like taxes. Not exactly what I want to be doing and we will be filing for an extension, but this is a more complicated tax year than most.
The temperature is warm and balmy all of the time and we take several short cold showers during the day to cool off. There is also a lot of fresh fruit - guavas, mangoes, pineapples, and bananas for sale that keep us refreshed. We were advised not to drink the water, but the beer is cheap and quite good. Soda is out of the bottle, and it's cold cold. The neighborhood pasteleria where fresh bread and pastries can be found was an excellent find yesterday afternoon. But the real treasure is the seafood. Today we went to the fish market on the Marginal Way. It was packed with people. The trick was to find a cafe (and waiter who spoke some English). She took us to the market, where we picked out our seafood (choices ranged from every type of shellfish imaginable to all kinds of fish). We settled on barracuda and calamari which they then cooked for us back at the restaurant. So I think for the next two weeks we will skip the textured vegetable protein, pasta, and peanut butter diet and live on fish and fruit instead!
Walking early this morning, we marveled at the art deco architecture that the city built in its heydey of the early 1900's. It seemed to resemble Havana or Miami in some ways. Even the cathedral is designed in this style, making it unlike any large church I have ever seen. The buildings are painted in the most fantastic colors and the details are intricate, indicating real craftmanship. The art deco is interspersed with earlier white-washed Portuguese buildings and then rather dreary concrete blocks from the 1960's. Russ has been wanting to see Gustav Eiffel's grand train station for the past twelve years and we finally made it there. It was worth the hour walk to get there (too hot to walk back, so we took a small tuk-tuk cab back to Fatima's).
We revisited the Polana, which was a lovely respite from the heat, and the Costa de Sol, a tired seaside hotel and seafood restaurant twelve years ago which has been revitalized and is thriving now. It was really nice to go back to the places that we had visited before and we hope to do more of that as we move up the coast.
Friday, February 18, 2011
Eden, rediscovered
Kruger is absolutely one of our favorite places. It is so rich in animal, bird, and plant life that we are in constant amazement every time we are here. Our time in the southernmost part of the park was by far the best game viewing we have seen. I think we saw more animals last month, but the types of animals this past week have been spectacular. In one afternoon, we saw more than ten white rhinos and six lionesses, all in fairly close proximity. The lions were actually moving around; one morning we followed a lioness for about twenty minutes as she was searching for the rest of the pride. Her teets were so swollen, I hope she still her cubs were still around. We saw lots of elephants, particularly a few elders with significant tusks and several kleintjies (little ones), which I especially enjoy. They are so playful. The range of elephant emotions really fascinates me. Russ noticed two mornings in a row these designs in the sand looking like large squiggles. We were told it was an elephant with an artistic streak!
We also saw for the first time ever, a small pack of wild dogs, of which there are just a few hundred in the whole park. That was definitely a highlight. They are supposedly some of the most vicious hunters in Africa but they look like the sweetest, prettiest housedogs. Also seeing so many rhinos at close range was completely unexpected but unlike the elephants are quite boring. Nevertheless, their girth is impressive. We never tire of seeing scores of giraffe, zebra, kudu, warthogs, and impala either. I really feel like we have been blessed to have this opportunity to spend time watching them.
It seems to me that summer is starting to wane, much like mid-August in the Berkshires with shorter days and cooler nights. Truth be told, I feel as though I have been living in one long perpetual summer, having left the US at the beginning of October and arriving in Botswana just as things were heating up.
Here in Kruger, there is not as much daylight as there was six weeks ago, but the days seem extraordinarily long. Long enough to go out on two or three game drives, take a nap, read, walk, and prepare leisurely meals. I am reading James Michener’s The Covenant right now (for about the tenth time). Every time I read this saga of how South Africa came to be formed by so many people groups, I feel I learn something new while at the same time think that the book so well explains why things are the way they are in this country. It is a vivid, if not sometimes painful, window into the past.
We have been camping in the park, but after the rainy debacle last month, instead opted for camping inside safari tents. Oh what a difference! We still have had intermittent showers every day, but it is dry inside with comfortable beds, a fridge, and best of all we don’t have to pack up a bunch of wet things. And it’s kind of free*, as we are using credit from our last stay on an error that was made (*free in the way when you return something you bought with a credit card and get cash back).
We had a family of warthogs in the camp, and an elephant who visited the perimeter, eating fermenting marula fruit that fell over the fence. There is marula fruit all over the place, and the monkeys and elephants are crazy over it. We like the liquor made from it, Amarula.
We braai’ed one afternoon, and that is also an excellent way to kill two or three hours - building a wood fire to grill meat and wors, drinking beer, and talking to people who are staying closeby. We’ve met some really interesting people here such as a local professional wildlife photographer, a couple who are trying to unify religious organizations around the world for the upcoming climate change conference in Durban, and a paramedic who spent time in Joburg emergency rooms to get his trauma experience (there apparently is not much in Sweden).
We are sitting now on the edge of the Mozambique in the border town of Komatipoort, still with a view of Kruger, and expect to head into Maputo tomorrow. If all goes as planned, the next time we are in South Africa will be when we fly into the Johannesburg airport en route home in May.
We also saw for the first time ever, a small pack of wild dogs, of which there are just a few hundred in the whole park. That was definitely a highlight. They are supposedly some of the most vicious hunters in Africa but they look like the sweetest, prettiest housedogs. Also seeing so many rhinos at close range was completely unexpected but unlike the elephants are quite boring. Nevertheless, their girth is impressive. We never tire of seeing scores of giraffe, zebra, kudu, warthogs, and impala either. I really feel like we have been blessed to have this opportunity to spend time watching them.
It seems to me that summer is starting to wane, much like mid-August in the Berkshires with shorter days and cooler nights. Truth be told, I feel as though I have been living in one long perpetual summer, having left the US at the beginning of October and arriving in Botswana just as things were heating up.
Here in Kruger, there is not as much daylight as there was six weeks ago, but the days seem extraordinarily long. Long enough to go out on two or three game drives, take a nap, read, walk, and prepare leisurely meals. I am reading James Michener’s The Covenant right now (for about the tenth time). Every time I read this saga of how South Africa came to be formed by so many people groups, I feel I learn something new while at the same time think that the book so well explains why things are the way they are in this country. It is a vivid, if not sometimes painful, window into the past.
We have been camping in the park, but after the rainy debacle last month, instead opted for camping inside safari tents. Oh what a difference! We still have had intermittent showers every day, but it is dry inside with comfortable beds, a fridge, and best of all we don’t have to pack up a bunch of wet things. And it’s kind of free*, as we are using credit from our last stay on an error that was made (*free in the way when you return something you bought with a credit card and get cash back).
We had a family of warthogs in the camp, and an elephant who visited the perimeter, eating fermenting marula fruit that fell over the fence. There is marula fruit all over the place, and the monkeys and elephants are crazy over it. We like the liquor made from it, Amarula.
We braai’ed one afternoon, and that is also an excellent way to kill two or three hours - building a wood fire to grill meat and wors, drinking beer, and talking to people who are staying closeby. We’ve met some really interesting people here such as a local professional wildlife photographer, a couple who are trying to unify religious organizations around the world for the upcoming climate change conference in Durban, and a paramedic who spent time in Joburg emergency rooms to get his trauma experience (there apparently is not much in Sweden).
We are sitting now on the edge of the Mozambique in the border town of Komatipoort, still with a view of Kruger, and expect to head into Maputo tomorrow. If all goes as planned, the next time we are in South Africa will be when we fly into the Johannesburg airport en route home in May.
Monday, February 14, 2011
Mefloquine Mondays
On Mondays now, we will take Mefloquine for most of the rest of the trip. With the heavy rains, malaria cases have been especially high in the region. To be honest, I am not a fan of the meds for its unknown long term effects and how it can mask the disease; a few friends who have contracted malaria say they just treated it when it came on. Not wanting to tempt fate however, we went with the controversial Mefloquine instead of the more popular Malarone for two reasons – Mefloquine is taken just once a week instead of every day, and it is significantly cheaper (ten years ago Mefloquine was the unaffordable drug). Both have the CDC stamp of approval; chloroquine is antiquated. Mefloquine got a bad rap among Peace Corps volunteers over the past fifteen years because of the potentially bad side effects, but we have never had a problem. It only gets as bad as some really powerful dreams on the day we take the pill, and we can deal with that.
My thoughts often drift to food, and maybe others are curious too. We have one small cooler and one box of food items and cooking utensils. So for inquiring minds, here is what we keep on hand in terms of staples as we travel around:
Long-life boxed milk, oatmeal, walnuts and cranberries (to go with the oatmeal), Weetbix or other cold cereal, rice, pasta, eggs, different sauce mixes (malay curry is our favorite), tuna, pesto, spices, bread, peanut butter, honey, Provita crackers, textured vegetable protein, whatever local fruit looks good, cheddar cheese, sodas, Mazoe (a Zimbabwean drink mix that Zane turned us on to), and rooibos tea.
Whenever we go to the store, we pick up meat and veggies, which for the most part have offered a wide selection. Avocados, mangoes, pineapples, and tomatoes are all in season right now. When we are in one place for awhile, we buy yogurt. So far, we have not gotten tired of any one food yet but we are about to change course in Mozambique and Zimbabwe where the selection is not as good so we may need to get more creative.
We're headed to Kruger National Park tomorrow for the week and then into Mozambique. We got some serious sticker shock when we paid for the Mozambique visas - over USD 100 each! But we also settled the other car paperwork so that we don't need to deal with it when we cross the border this weekend.
Russ is cooking dinner tonight for V-day and I am sure that will be delicious. Old Vic also has a jacuzzi so we are set for tonight!
My thoughts often drift to food, and maybe others are curious too. We have one small cooler and one box of food items and cooking utensils. So for inquiring minds, here is what we keep on hand in terms of staples as we travel around:
Long-life boxed milk, oatmeal, walnuts and cranberries (to go with the oatmeal), Weetbix or other cold cereal, rice, pasta, eggs, different sauce mixes (malay curry is our favorite), tuna, pesto, spices, bread, peanut butter, honey, Provita crackers, textured vegetable protein, whatever local fruit looks good, cheddar cheese, sodas, Mazoe (a Zimbabwean drink mix that Zane turned us on to), and rooibos tea.
Whenever we go to the store, we pick up meat and veggies, which for the most part have offered a wide selection. Avocados, mangoes, pineapples, and tomatoes are all in season right now. When we are in one place for awhile, we buy yogurt. So far, we have not gotten tired of any one food yet but we are about to change course in Mozambique and Zimbabwe where the selection is not as good so we may need to get more creative.
We're headed to Kruger National Park tomorrow for the week and then into Mozambique. We got some serious sticker shock when we paid for the Mozambique visas - over USD 100 each! But we also settled the other car paperwork so that we don't need to deal with it when we cross the border this weekend.
Russ is cooking dinner tonight for V-day and I am sure that will be delicious. Old Vic also has a jacuzzi so we are set for tonight!
Sunday, February 13, 2011
City on a hill
We arrived the capitol city of Mbabane on Friday. Driving up from the Ezulwini valley, we probably ascended a kilometer to the top of a hill. The city was as high as many of the mountains we spent time looking up at during the past week. Our short time downtown showed us a vibrant center of activity and a well-planned shopping area. It was easy to navigate. We found a guesthouse in the diplomatic section of the city, with an absolutely stunning view. It reminded me of southern California in a lot of ways,with eucalyptus groves, deep valleys with scrub brush, and houses with tiled roofs.
This scenic city belies its many problems however, as our friends Todd and Yolande from Namibia pointed out to us. They moved here about eighteen months ago, and while their quality of life is outstanding, they struggle with the political corruption, apparently rampant domestic and child abuse, alcoholism, and general status of women. While these are social problems which are common in many countries, we know that some places are harder to live in than others because of the prevalence.
We enjoyed our time with them, as we reminisced about how Namibian beef is so much better than anywhere else in the region and swapped stories about friends we have in common.
Crossing the border back into South Africa did not pose a problem and by noontime yesterday we had descended into the steamy lowveld and Nelspruit, the self-described entry into Kruger Park. It is a good city in which we discovered the largest Spar supermarket we had seen. Because of the oppressive heat and humidity, we stayed in the air-conditioned complex for quite a while. We discovered what must be the best breakfast cereal ever – nutella in a corn pillow. It didn’t even make it to breakfast. Genius.
We lucked out at Old Vic Travellers Inn. This backpacker’s place was awarded four stars by someone, and because of the slow season we were given an entire apartment for the price of an en-suite room. Yes, we will certainly be here a few days as we have just about completely moved in. A large tropical garden envelopes the yard and there is a good-sized aviary with several types of birds. A very peaceful place to be. Glad there is a pool though because it is bloody hot.
This scenic city belies its many problems however, as our friends Todd and Yolande from Namibia pointed out to us. They moved here about eighteen months ago, and while their quality of life is outstanding, they struggle with the political corruption, apparently rampant domestic and child abuse, alcoholism, and general status of women. While these are social problems which are common in many countries, we know that some places are harder to live in than others because of the prevalence.
We enjoyed our time with them, as we reminisced about how Namibian beef is so much better than anywhere else in the region and swapped stories about friends we have in common.
Crossing the border back into South Africa did not pose a problem and by noontime yesterday we had descended into the steamy lowveld and Nelspruit, the self-described entry into Kruger Park. It is a good city in which we discovered the largest Spar supermarket we had seen. Because of the oppressive heat and humidity, we stayed in the air-conditioned complex for quite a while. We discovered what must be the best breakfast cereal ever – nutella in a corn pillow. It didn’t even make it to breakfast. Genius.
We lucked out at Old Vic Travellers Inn. This backpacker’s place was awarded four stars by someone, and because of the slow season we were given an entire apartment for the price of an en-suite room. Yes, we will certainly be here a few days as we have just about completely moved in. A large tropical garden envelopes the yard and there is a good-sized aviary with several types of birds. A very peaceful place to be. Glad there is a pool though because it is bloody hot.
Friday, February 11, 2011
Seventeen cows
When I typed this yesterday, I was sitting in front of our rondavel in the Mlilwane Game Reserve in western Swaziland. For as far as I could see, there were green meadows, sugar cane fields, pine and eucalyptus forests. It was quiet, except for the songbirds and the indistinguishable insects. Once again, we virtually had the place to ourselves. There are a few other people staying here at the Sodwaza Backpackers place, but we opted for a secluded thatched hut with an amazing view over a room in the main house.
We left South Africa on Sunday, the day before their national election. As he is prone to do, President Jacob Zuma opened his big mouth over the weekend by saying that a vote for the African National Congress was a ticket into heaven; voting otherwise was siding with the devil. Not voting for the ANC is seen as unpatriotic, when in reality the party has not delivered on many of its promises. Sadly, this is not Mandela’s ANC anymore. Zuma’s many kneejerk comments can be laughable and dismissible, until we realize that sometimes US politics don’t sound much different and that is sobering.
I digress. When we arrived in Ezulwini Sunday afternoon, we had an array of budget accommodation to choose from. It is hard to sometimes know what a place will be like, just by what you read, even from Lonely Planet. I think for the most part, we have had really wonderful places to stay so far. We started first at Lidwala, which was a traditional style backpackers lodge and it was packed with volunteers for a nearby project. They did however have a lovely tented camp for us by a stream and it was relatively quiet in the evening. The facilities however were more than we were willing to put up with for the week. A tiny kitchen with an over packed fridge, sketchy showers, and not enough toilets. We have logged enough time at similar places in the past and are too old for that when there are other options available. Plus, they were expecting twenty more teenagers the next day.
On Monday, we moved over to the Southern Cross Lodge, a house run by a Spanish couple, Jesus and Maria. We were the only ones there, the kitchen was large and well-stocked, and we watched movies in the evenings. But because we had a whole week in this lovely valley just south of the capitol, this also was not the place we wanted to spend all of our time. It was plenty nice, BUT, and I have to be honest here - 1) we felt like we had someone checking up on us all the time, 2) there was an obnoxious dog who hadn't been trained properly, and 3) no mossie screens on the bedroom windows so they stayed closed without a fan in the room. Needless to say on Wednesday, we came to Sodwaza and stayed there for a few days.
The great thing about this national park was that we could walk around with the animals. Granted, there were no predators (except for the crocodiles), but wild is wild. Walking past herds of nyala, kudu, impala, zebra, black wildebeest, and blesbok was just a very cool thing to do (and we were thankful for the exercise every day). Most of the time we did not even take photos, just enjoying seeing the animals who seemed quite used to people and were relative calm. We have also seen some very different birds – the brillant “Red Bishop” is a stunning little puffball of a bird. I think the many warthogs who were all around the camp were my favorites. Even at the pool, we had zebra and impala walk by.
Ezulwini is a rich cultural area. One of the royal palaces is here where the Queen Mother stays in residence. Swaziland is the last absolute monarchy on earth and photos of the king are everywhere - on curtains, in photos, on cloth. A lot of the craft industry is also based in this area. Weaving is one of the main skills used in making baskets, mats, and ropes. There is also a widespread textile industry printing cloth and making batiks, a locally run candle company, and beadwork. We enjoyed going to the large regional market in Manzini where produce, clothes, household goods are sold and just about any service could be rendered. Russ got a haircut and we could have consulted with a traditional healer. I love markets for the bustle and the people you can talk to. I always feel like I learn a lot.
Earlier this week we went to a nearby village to see how the traditional Swazis live. It reminded me much of the Zulu way with the beehive huts segregated into male and female living quarters, cooking areas, and grain storage. We talked with the headman who told Russ that he should have paid seventeen cows as lebola when we got married. I think it was a compliment, but I told Russ he would have gotten a deal at twenty. Ha-ha. Seventeen cows!
We left South Africa on Sunday, the day before their national election. As he is prone to do, President Jacob Zuma opened his big mouth over the weekend by saying that a vote for the African National Congress was a ticket into heaven; voting otherwise was siding with the devil. Not voting for the ANC is seen as unpatriotic, when in reality the party has not delivered on many of its promises. Sadly, this is not Mandela’s ANC anymore. Zuma’s many kneejerk comments can be laughable and dismissible, until we realize that sometimes US politics don’t sound much different and that is sobering.
I digress. When we arrived in Ezulwini Sunday afternoon, we had an array of budget accommodation to choose from. It is hard to sometimes know what a place will be like, just by what you read, even from Lonely Planet. I think for the most part, we have had really wonderful places to stay so far. We started first at Lidwala, which was a traditional style backpackers lodge and it was packed with volunteers for a nearby project. They did however have a lovely tented camp for us by a stream and it was relatively quiet in the evening. The facilities however were more than we were willing to put up with for the week. A tiny kitchen with an over packed fridge, sketchy showers, and not enough toilets. We have logged enough time at similar places in the past and are too old for that when there are other options available. Plus, they were expecting twenty more teenagers the next day.
On Monday, we moved over to the Southern Cross Lodge, a house run by a Spanish couple, Jesus and Maria. We were the only ones there, the kitchen was large and well-stocked, and we watched movies in the evenings. But because we had a whole week in this lovely valley just south of the capitol, this also was not the place we wanted to spend all of our time. It was plenty nice, BUT, and I have to be honest here - 1) we felt like we had someone checking up on us all the time, 2) there was an obnoxious dog who hadn't been trained properly, and 3) no mossie screens on the bedroom windows so they stayed closed without a fan in the room. Needless to say on Wednesday, we came to Sodwaza and stayed there for a few days.
The great thing about this national park was that we could walk around with the animals. Granted, there were no predators (except for the crocodiles), but wild is wild. Walking past herds of nyala, kudu, impala, zebra, black wildebeest, and blesbok was just a very cool thing to do (and we were thankful for the exercise every day). Most of the time we did not even take photos, just enjoying seeing the animals who seemed quite used to people and were relative calm. We have also seen some very different birds – the brillant “Red Bishop” is a stunning little puffball of a bird. I think the many warthogs who were all around the camp were my favorites. Even at the pool, we had zebra and impala walk by.
Ezulwini is a rich cultural area. One of the royal palaces is here where the Queen Mother stays in residence. Swaziland is the last absolute monarchy on earth and photos of the king are everywhere - on curtains, in photos, on cloth. A lot of the craft industry is also based in this area. Weaving is one of the main skills used in making baskets, mats, and ropes. There is also a widespread textile industry printing cloth and making batiks, a locally run candle company, and beadwork. We enjoyed going to the large regional market in Manzini where produce, clothes, household goods are sold and just about any service could be rendered. Russ got a haircut and we could have consulted with a traditional healer. I love markets for the bustle and the people you can talk to. I always feel like I learn a lot.
Earlier this week we went to a nearby village to see how the traditional Swazis live. It reminded me much of the Zulu way with the beehive huts segregated into male and female living quarters, cooking areas, and grain storage. We talked with the headman who told Russ that he should have paid seventeen cows as lebola when we got married. I think it was a compliment, but I told Russ he would have gotten a deal at twenty. Ha-ha. Seventeen cows!
Sunday, February 6, 2011
The hills are alive
Somewhat sad to leave Vera and her jams on Thursday, as we drove into the heart of the Drakensberg, a World Heritage Site, which also makes up the backbone of Lesotho’s eastern highlands. After spending a couple of days there, our introduction earlier in the week to the Amphitheatre seemed tame. The craggy steeples of these so-called Dragon Mountains remained in the clouds for most of the day, but in the middle of our half-day hike on Friday they cleared briefly, giving us a spectacular panorama. They reminded us a great deal of the Alps, yet of course the vegetation is quite different. Like in Lesotho, from a distance the mountains look draped in rich green velvet, and there are all sorts of deciduous and coniferous trees dotting the landscape.
Inkosana Lodge was another fabulous backpackers place with lots of comfortable seating inside and out. There were Adirondack chairs on the back lawn, and that made it feel like home. It was a lot more full than any other place we’ve been, but it is the only affordable place in the Champagne Valley, just outside the Monk’s Cowl park. It should be said that most of the “backpacker” places we have stayed at have been nicer than we remember or expected. Of course, they are also more expensive than the last time we were seriously traveling. On average, two beds in a dorm room cost USD 30; a double room is about USD 40-50 which of course is not a bad deal.
We have been reading a lot in the evenings. I picked up a book called “In-n-Out” which is a wonderful narrative about the birth and growth of In-n-Out burgers, as well as documenting the boom in the San Gabriel Valley in southern California, which is where I grew up. Unfortunately, it has left me craving in the worst way for one of their hamburgers. Russ even made me a burger the other day, which while very good, was not the same. Sigh.
Giant’s Castle was another peak two hours south of Inkosana. It proved to be a highlight of the trip, driving aside (since I am doing most of the driving, I need to mention how bad the roads in South Africa are). We had a gorgeous hike through meadows and forests to a series of caves that featured San rock paintings in excellent condition from the past thousand years. The area is one of the richest in all of southern Africa for these paintings, and even with the vandalism, they are well-maintained. It was a great Saturday morning.
From there we drove back through all the small villages. Saturdays are always busy shopping days and people, cows, and donkeys covered the roads, while rows of laundry hung like colorful Tibetan prayer flags. Once we hit the tarmac, I experienced the second highlight of the day: the N3 toll road. We quite happily paid to use this road for fifty kilometers because there were no potholes. Every single other road we have been on in the country has had some kind of road work, and if they are not completely paving a new road involving waits of up to a half hour (and sometimes three waits in a thirty kilometer stretch), there are serious divets in the road that make driving challenging. I guess it provides some kind of employment stability as it looks like these roads will never be finished.
Three and half hours later, we arrived at Dundee, and I wish we could have stayed longer than just an overnight. We are at an awkward stage in our trip where we have a reservation in Kruger National Park in ten days (we had to make the reservation ahead of time to use the credit on our account and we called when we had phone service in Kestell). Anyway, we felt like we needed to move on to Swaziland to not rush that part of the trip, which is where we are right now.
Coal mining is the main industry in the Scottish immigrant community of Dundee and its neighbors Newcastle, Glencoe, and Ladysmith. It is surrounded by battle sites of the Anglo-Boer, Boer-Zulu, and Anglo-Zulu wars. Notably, Rourke’s Drift (where 100 British defeated 4000 Zulu, as you might remember from the movie Zulu with Michael Caine) and Blood River (where the Boers’ victory over the Zulu convinced them that they were the Chosen ones) are close by. Also, interesting is that Gandhi spent some time in the area organizing his peaceful opposition to the way Indians were treated back in 1914. The town and surrounding area have done a great job at recognizing all of the different groups who have a shared history without seemingly alienating anyone. Absolutely fascinating.
Swaziland is more tourist-savvy than Lesotho, but internet access is still expensive and not too reliable. Our computer is good for typing stories up and then uploading when we get the chance. Which is what I will do over the next couple of days while we are in Malkerna.
Inkosana Lodge was another fabulous backpackers place with lots of comfortable seating inside and out. There were Adirondack chairs on the back lawn, and that made it feel like home. It was a lot more full than any other place we’ve been, but it is the only affordable place in the Champagne Valley, just outside the Monk’s Cowl park. It should be said that most of the “backpacker” places we have stayed at have been nicer than we remember or expected. Of course, they are also more expensive than the last time we were seriously traveling. On average, two beds in a dorm room cost USD 30; a double room is about USD 40-50 which of course is not a bad deal.
We have been reading a lot in the evenings. I picked up a book called “In-n-Out” which is a wonderful narrative about the birth and growth of In-n-Out burgers, as well as documenting the boom in the San Gabriel Valley in southern California, which is where I grew up. Unfortunately, it has left me craving in the worst way for one of their hamburgers. Russ even made me a burger the other day, which while very good, was not the same. Sigh.
Giant’s Castle was another peak two hours south of Inkosana. It proved to be a highlight of the trip, driving aside (since I am doing most of the driving, I need to mention how bad the roads in South Africa are). We had a gorgeous hike through meadows and forests to a series of caves that featured San rock paintings in excellent condition from the past thousand years. The area is one of the richest in all of southern Africa for these paintings, and even with the vandalism, they are well-maintained. It was a great Saturday morning.
From there we drove back through all the small villages. Saturdays are always busy shopping days and people, cows, and donkeys covered the roads, while rows of laundry hung like colorful Tibetan prayer flags. Once we hit the tarmac, I experienced the second highlight of the day: the N3 toll road. We quite happily paid to use this road for fifty kilometers because there were no potholes. Every single other road we have been on in the country has had some kind of road work, and if they are not completely paving a new road involving waits of up to a half hour (and sometimes three waits in a thirty kilometer stretch), there are serious divets in the road that make driving challenging. I guess it provides some kind of employment stability as it looks like these roads will never be finished.
Three and half hours later, we arrived at Dundee, and I wish we could have stayed longer than just an overnight. We are at an awkward stage in our trip where we have a reservation in Kruger National Park in ten days (we had to make the reservation ahead of time to use the credit on our account and we called when we had phone service in Kestell). Anyway, we felt like we needed to move on to Swaziland to not rush that part of the trip, which is where we are right now.
Coal mining is the main industry in the Scottish immigrant community of Dundee and its neighbors Newcastle, Glencoe, and Ladysmith. It is surrounded by battle sites of the Anglo-Boer, Boer-Zulu, and Anglo-Zulu wars. Notably, Rourke’s Drift (where 100 British defeated 4000 Zulu, as you might remember from the movie Zulu with Michael Caine) and Blood River (where the Boers’ victory over the Zulu convinced them that they were the Chosen ones) are close by. Also, interesting is that Gandhi spent some time in the area organizing his peaceful opposition to the way Indians were treated back in 1914. The town and surrounding area have done a great job at recognizing all of the different groups who have a shared history without seemingly alienating anyone. Absolutely fascinating.
Swaziland is more tourist-savvy than Lesotho, but internet access is still expensive and not too reliable. Our computer is good for typing stories up and then uploading when we get the chance. Which is what I will do over the next couple of days while we are in Malkerna.
Wednesday, February 2, 2011
The Basotho breakfast
We sauntered in to a sleepy Maseru on Sunday which was a great time to re-enter the city. We found thirty minutes of internet time at the mall before it closed and read the newspapers from the past week. I enjoyed catching up on the news: Mandela was released from hospital after a frightening pneumonia scare – it seemed as though all of South Africa was immobilized over it. Desmond Tutu gave the opening day speech at the University of the Free State in Bloemfontein which we were sorry to have missed. South African farmers are suffering from the floods as produce prices have risen dramatically and I imagine foreign exports are down. Good for carbon miles I guess.
We stayed over at the Hillsview Guesthouse, an out-of-the-way place that seemed to cater more for locals than tourists, which was fine with us as it was quiet, comfortable, and offered DSTV cable. It also introduced us to the Basotho Breakfast Monday morning. First we had a sugary strawberry flavored yogurt. Then we were given a plate with two pieces of bread, a slice of cheese, a boiled egg, chopped bacon, baked beans, and a hot dog (which at least was a normal color, not the bright pink so common here). Served with a glass of so-called juice reminiscient of Tang. It was a meal we will soon not forget.
Before I leave my thoughts on Lesotho, there are a few things I forgot to mention. First is that the Sotho language is quite similar to Setswana, so we were at a immediate advantage already knowing quite a few words. That always helps. Second is that I found out that J.R.R. Tolkien was born in Bloem and the scenery for Lord of the Rings was based in large part on the craggy mountains of Lesotho. When his son came to visit Lesotho, he sent back drawings to his father who was fascinated with the terrain. That is pretty cool I think. Certainly no one has exploited that angle; there are no fairy lodges or troll villages. Third, and this is not exclusive to Lesotho, people are constantly asking me how many children I have and can't understand when I say we have none. It's a completely foreign idea to them. In Lesotho, I was offered two children. Needless to say, we passed...
Kestell, South Africda is where we are lodged at the moment, and we have had such a good vibe about this place that I think we will stay another day. We are at Karma Backpackers, a charming funky comfortable old house run by a hippie couple who retired from Joburg. Vera now makes the most delicious jams and sells them all over the country. I had pear pinotage and rosemary this afternoon with tea. There is also fresh butter and milk, so we are in no hurry to move on. Every room in the house is painted a different “Central American” color; for example our bedroom is a vibrant periwinkle and the bathroom is lime (with tangerine towels and curtains). There are wonderful pieces of furniture and quirky mosaics and artistic pieces of various mediums all over the house. The flower and vegetable gardens are gorgeous, and we happily save our table scraps for the chickens (although these are not as amicable as ours).
I ended up driving forty-five minutes into Harrismith late on Monday to see a doctor. Turns out I have ringworm (eeew!) which I am thankful for because I expected this alien abscess on my leg to be parasitic. The office visit with a topical cream only cost USD 40 – oh that American health care was so affordable! One of the interesting things about being in that city was the absence of English. I mean, we are in the Vry Staat (Free State), but the Afrikaans was intense. Everyone (black and white) I spoke to answered in Afrikaans only, except for the doctor. It was a little surreal, but my Afrikaans got me through the basics (although I ended up with large apricots instead of peaches at the roadside stand).
Kestell is located in the Eastern Free State at the start of the Drakensberg range. The landscapes are spectacular; it is very similar to the American Southwest with its expansive plataeus and red rocks. What makes it different is that there is so much green undergrowth. Yesterday we went hiking in the Amphitheatre, a magnificent bowl in the Royal Natal National Park that we hiked down part way and then back up. It really is a different experience having to hike up at the end. At the rim of the bowl stands the Sentinel, a Half Dome-like rock accessed only with a chain ladder. We had hoped to hike this, but the whole thing was shrouded in clouds, only peaking out just as we were driving away.
We've enjoyed walking around here, reading, studying maps, and talking. Internet is only available in the evenings, but last night the lightening storm canceled that. No problem. We watched Casino Royale, which is maybe the best Bond movie ever. When we do leave it will be meandering down into the Central part of the 'berg. But no rush...
We stayed over at the Hillsview Guesthouse, an out-of-the-way place that seemed to cater more for locals than tourists, which was fine with us as it was quiet, comfortable, and offered DSTV cable. It also introduced us to the Basotho Breakfast Monday morning. First we had a sugary strawberry flavored yogurt. Then we were given a plate with two pieces of bread, a slice of cheese, a boiled egg, chopped bacon, baked beans, and a hot dog (which at least was a normal color, not the bright pink so common here). Served with a glass of so-called juice reminiscient of Tang. It was a meal we will soon not forget.
Before I leave my thoughts on Lesotho, there are a few things I forgot to mention. First is that the Sotho language is quite similar to Setswana, so we were at a immediate advantage already knowing quite a few words. That always helps. Second is that I found out that J.R.R. Tolkien was born in Bloem and the scenery for Lord of the Rings was based in large part on the craggy mountains of Lesotho. When his son came to visit Lesotho, he sent back drawings to his father who was fascinated with the terrain. That is pretty cool I think. Certainly no one has exploited that angle; there are no fairy lodges or troll villages. Third, and this is not exclusive to Lesotho, people are constantly asking me how many children I have and can't understand when I say we have none. It's a completely foreign idea to them. In Lesotho, I was offered two children. Needless to say, we passed...
Kestell, South Africda is where we are lodged at the moment, and we have had such a good vibe about this place that I think we will stay another day. We are at Karma Backpackers, a charming funky comfortable old house run by a hippie couple who retired from Joburg. Vera now makes the most delicious jams and sells them all over the country. I had pear pinotage and rosemary this afternoon with tea. There is also fresh butter and milk, so we are in no hurry to move on. Every room in the house is painted a different “Central American” color; for example our bedroom is a vibrant periwinkle and the bathroom is lime (with tangerine towels and curtains). There are wonderful pieces of furniture and quirky mosaics and artistic pieces of various mediums all over the house. The flower and vegetable gardens are gorgeous, and we happily save our table scraps for the chickens (although these are not as amicable as ours).
I ended up driving forty-five minutes into Harrismith late on Monday to see a doctor. Turns out I have ringworm (eeew!) which I am thankful for because I expected this alien abscess on my leg to be parasitic. The office visit with a topical cream only cost USD 40 – oh that American health care was so affordable! One of the interesting things about being in that city was the absence of English. I mean, we are in the Vry Staat (Free State), but the Afrikaans was intense. Everyone (black and white) I spoke to answered in Afrikaans only, except for the doctor. It was a little surreal, but my Afrikaans got me through the basics (although I ended up with large apricots instead of peaches at the roadside stand).
Kestell is located in the Eastern Free State at the start of the Drakensberg range. The landscapes are spectacular; it is very similar to the American Southwest with its expansive plataeus and red rocks. What makes it different is that there is so much green undergrowth. Yesterday we went hiking in the Amphitheatre, a magnificent bowl in the Royal Natal National Park that we hiked down part way and then back up. It really is a different experience having to hike up at the end. At the rim of the bowl stands the Sentinel, a Half Dome-like rock accessed only with a chain ladder. We had hoped to hike this, but the whole thing was shrouded in clouds, only peaking out just as we were driving away.
We've enjoyed walking around here, reading, studying maps, and talking. Internet is only available in the evenings, but last night the lightening storm canceled that. No problem. We watched Casino Royale, which is maybe the best Bond movie ever. When we do leave it will be meandering down into the Central part of the 'berg. But no rush...
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